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ROME – On the stone steps of the 500-year-old Santa Maria del Popolo church, our tour group huddled around our guide in a tight circle. “Come closer,” the guide said. We leaned in even more. “Be really quiet inside,” he advised. He was holding a tattered, hardcover copy of Dan Brown’s “Angels & Demons,” and as he spoke, he slipped it into a messenger bag slung around his shoulder.

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